INTERVIEW
Aspiring to deliver the most advanced
mountaineering of the times
Hirotaka Takeuchi is the only Japanese and 29th in the world to conquer the 14 highest peaks above 8,000 meters.
He has climbed 11 of the 14 peaks without the use of supplemental oxygen, which also marks a Japanese record.
“When I completed my ascent of the 14 peaks in May 2012, everyone automatically asked if I would be challenging the North or South Pole in my next attempt. I assume it’s because many of the mountain climbers abroad follow that path, but I personally like to be in elevated places. I especially have an undying thirst for unclimbed mountains.”
Even when overseas expeditions were restricted in 2020 due to the pandemic, Hirotaka never stopped the challenges. He demonstrated an unprecedented ascent in an online climbing challenge titled, #妄想エヴェレスト登山 (lit. #imaginaryeverestclimb).
“I made a post on my social media with the hashtag, #うちで登ろう (lit. #climbathome) that made it look like I was actually climbing Mount Everest. I made use of the images and experiences from the past and streamed the entire expedition starting from the packing to the summit push and finally the ascent in ‘real-time.’ The role of a professional mountaineer is to execute the most up-to-date climb of the times. So, the question was, ‘How can I climb a mountain using the most advanced technology in a situation when I can’t actually go to the mountains?’ and I think I’ve provided a solution to that.”
The significance of down, a natural material unrivaled
by any synthetic fiber
What was considered cutting edge a hundred years ago? What were the most advanced outfits and styles fifty years ago? How did the advancement of equipment and materials transform the art of mountaineering? Takeuchi continues to seek answers.
“George Mallory, who set off on his first expedition on Mount Everest in 1924 and disappeared, wore a tweed jacket, coat, and breeches. The equipment he carried were hemp ropes, metal oxygen bottles, and an ice pick with a wooden shaft. Crampons had not been invented at the time, so the mountaineer fitted his boots with hobnails to ascend the 8,500 meters. Looking at images from Mallory’s expedition, you’d be surprised at how shabby the gear was, but that was essentially the most advanced equipment they had in that period. We mountaineers have to determine the most up-to-date and optimal tools available at the time and continue to ask ourselves if those tools will take us to the next level and beyond.”
Looking at down, a material that represents the NANGA brand, how does Takeuchi view it as a tool?
“Down already has insulating capabilities and can be compressed to a compact size in its natural state, so it requires no processing in that sense. The material is exceptionally ideal. It’s in a league of its own that synthetic fibers will never compare to, not just in terms of functionality but also sustainability. When you consider the employment, culture, and history that goes into making down products, synthetic materials simply aren't up to the task. On the other hand, I'm very much looking forward to seeing how companies like NANGA will bring us the most state-of-the-art products in the future. I think sleeping bags are among the most difficult things to update. If we’re talking about mountain climbing gear that uses metals, I can imagine how the materials and construction may evolve, but we’re talking about sleeping bags that are already sensibly designed and made with down, the ultimate natural material. I’m excited to see where NANGA will take them.”
The magic of Nanga Parbat, the mountain
that inspired the company name
The name NANGA was inspired by Nanga Parbat, one of the fourteen mountain peaks of the eight-thousanders. With an elevation of 8,125 meters, it is the ninth tallest mountain on the planet. Tales of this mountain have been passed down throughout the history of mountain climbing owing to the existence of an English mountaineer by the name of Albert Frederick Mummery. To Mummery, the essence of mountaineering was not about ascending a peak but about climbing the more difficult route by pushing yourself beyond the limits of your mind and body. Albert Mummery was a pioneer of modern alpinism, setting a style and trend that some have coined as Mummerism.
“Nanga Parbat is the mountain where the visionary mountaineer disappeared in 1895 while demonstrating Mummerism with his life. The legacy of his alpinism also lives on in me. The fact that I am still aiming high and putting myself in a series of challenges is all thanks to Mummery, and my story would not be complete without him.”
HIROTAKA TAKEUCHI
Born in 1971 in Tokyo. Visiting professor at Rissho University. Member of Honey Communications, Inc. Starting with the ascent of the Makalu (8,463 m) in 1995, Takeuchi consecutively succeeded in summiting Mount Everest (8,848 m) and K2 (8,611 m) in 1996. He continued to challenge the eight-thousanders, while vigorously incorporating the alpine style of speedy climbing, and succeeds in conquering the final fourteenth peak of the Dhaulagiri in 2012. This achievement made Takeuchi the first Japanese and the 29th in the world to climb all 14 summits of the eight-thousanders. He was awarded the Naomi Uemura Adventure Award and the Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology Award for his athletic achievements. While further challenging the unclimbed peaks, Takeuchi also uses his expertise in mountaineering to engage in outdoor education programs, disaster prevention awareness, and other philanthropic activities.
